{"id":208829,"date":"2019-11-07T17:31:15","date_gmt":"2019-11-07T22:31:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/?p=208829"},"modified":"2019-11-07T17:35:01","modified_gmt":"2019-11-07T22:35:01","slug":"baracoas-distinct-cuisine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/cuban-flavors\/baracoas-distinct-cuisine\/","title":{"rendered":"Baracoa\u2019s distinct cuisine"},"content":{"rendered":"

You can\u2019t walk ten yards along any beach from Cabo San Antonio to Punta Mais\u00ed without fear of being brained by a falling coconut. So how come coco rarely finds its way into Cuban cooking? Elsewhere in the Caribbean it\u2019s a versatile staple, simmered luxuriously with white rice or adding richness to soups, plus sensual subtlety and body to smoothies. And then there\u2019s spinach-like callaloo, and heavily seasoned mojo marinade, provocatively spicy and hot as Rihanna.<\/p>\n

Much of the Caribbean\u2019s endlessly lively cuisine gives a nod to its Ta\u00edno Amerindian heritage. Many indigenous ingredients\u2014cassava (yucca) and sweet potato, plantains and maize, chilis and peppers\u2014are staples in Cuban cooking. Yet Cuba\u2019s comparatively uniform and bland fare reduced Anthony Bourdain (during his first visit, in 2011) to repeat the famous quip about the \u201cthree things the Revolution does worst: breakfast, lunch and dinner.\u201d<\/p>\n

What a pity the late, great Bourdain didn\u2019t venture to Baracoa, where the unique regional cuisine\u2014infused with Ta\u00edno traditions\u2014is the equal of anything the Caribbean can offer.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Traditional local cuisine at El Guirito, Baracoa, Cuba.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The first signs of Ta\u00edno culture, of something unique on the isle, begin to appear as we bounce down a dirt track that leads to the hamlet of El G\u00fcirito. Past simple thatched boh\u00edos with palm-plank walls. Past graves surrounded by guamo (conch) shells and topped by thatch, preserving a Ta\u00edno superstition meant to thwart evil spirits. Past still-smoldering plots, newly cleared by slash-and-burn, Ta\u00edno-style. Past heaped-earth mounds\u2014an indigenous tradition\u2014planted with maize, plantain and yucca, and tilled by weathered indios campesinos prodding at the soil with coas: long, sharpened hoes (unique to this part of the isle) that pre-date Columbus\u2019 arrival near Baracoa on November 27, 1492.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m here with my National Geographic Expeditions\u2019 group to interact with Grupo Kirib\u00e1-Neng\u00f3n, a cultural ensemble that keeps alive the eponymous country music and dance forms that are rustic precursors to son. I\u2019m astonished by their coppery complexions and squared-off jaws and prominent cheekbones\u2014so distinct from elsewhere in Cuba\u2014transporting me metaphorically back to the Amazon basin. The group strikes up, interpreting their traditional sounds with the tambor, tres, claves, g\u00fciro, maracas, mar\u00edmbula, and a g\u00fcayo scraper inherited from the Ta\u00edno serrated stone grating board used to shred yucca.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Calalu at El Guirito, Baracoa, Cuba.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Baracoense dishes served in gourds at El Guirito, Baracoa, Cuba.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And then comes the food.<\/p>\n

The rough-hewn table is laid out with a buffet of typical and tantalizing baracoense dishes. Unique to the region, they\u2019re refreshingly different from the predictable rice, beans and pork. A tiny and savory fish\u2014barely a centimeter long and almost transparent\u2014called tet\u00ed\u2026. Bac\u00e1n, a tamal, made with plantain, coconut milk, and pork, seasoned with annatto and other spices, and wrapped in blanched banana leaves\u2026. Crab enchilada with coconut milk\u2026. Spicy shrimp with coconut-flavored rice\u2026. Calal\u00fa simmered in (you guessed it) leche de coco\u2026. Pud\u00edn de boniato, a dessert of sweet potato cooked with sugar and coconut milk\u2026. Irresistibly sugary balls-called yemitas made with chocolate and grated coconut\u2026. Plus chorote, an addictive chocolate drink made from locally grown cacao and coconut milk thickened with cornstarch. All served in coconut shells, j\u00edcaras (hollowed out gourds), and palm-frond makuto baskets, or laid out on bateas (long wooden trays), and known by names familiar to their Ta\u00edno forebears.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Baracoa, 900 kilometers east of Havana, is as haunting in its fantastical unfamiliarity as it is enchanting in beauty. The city, founded in 1511, is Cuba\u2019s oldest. Its setting is fit for a Hollywood epic. Baracoa unfurls like an abanico fan below a flat-topped formation\u2014El Yunque\u2014floating mysteriously above mountains smothered in throttling green virgin forest, forming a great amphitheater cusping the Bah\u00eda de Miel. This is as close as you\u2019ll ever come to seeing what Columbus saw when his first voyage brought him to Cuba. It\u2019s easy to see how pockets of indigenous people could survive in this wild rugged place, passing down their genes through the centuries.<\/p>\n

This is by far Cuba\u2019s rainiest region. A near steady pat of water drips from the evergreen canopy. Baracoa\u2019s original cuisine and culinary traditions owe much to its inveterate indigenous past and the dripping-wet climate. And to ingredients rarely seen in other province\u2019s gardens and kitchens.<\/p>\n

Take the tet\u00ed (a Ta\u00edno word first recorded in 1527 by Friar Bartolom\u00e9 de Las Casas). This Baracoan delicacy\u2014a species of goby (Sicydium plumieri)\u2014is unique in Cuba to the mouths of the Duaba, Miel, and Toa rivers. And only July through December, when under a luna menquante (waning moon), balling shoals of young fry surge in from the sea to the river mouth, roiling the water surface\u2026<\/p>\n

Dawning sunlight glitters upon the waters, and a rubicund radiance mantles the mountain meniscus. As the blazing sun rises above the horizon, Pip\u00edn Garrido gathers his net and leans into his throw, and the fine woven mesh goes flying. The circular spiderweb opens like a parachute before hitting the water. Rafael hauls in his net, now bursting with wriggling worm-like tet\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\u201c\u00a1Tetiserooooooo!\u2026 \u00a1Hay tet\u00ed!\u2026 \u00a1Tet\u00ed fresco!\u201d Pip\u00edn shouts as he strolls through Baracoa, his baskets teeming with wee glassy fish.<\/p>\n

I first taste them at a paladar called El Poeta. A whole plate-full, heaped with little opaque fish, fried then simmered in coconut milk with slivers of sweet peppers and onions. Pablo Neyva, the very colorful (and now-deceased) owner, assures me that the savory dish is a great aphrodisiac. (Curiously, Pip\u00edn and other local fishers believe that the fish won\u2019t appear in the river if a pregnant or menstruating woman is present. Cubans are a superstitious people, and never more so than around Baracoa, where campesinos\u2014peasant farmers\u2014who proudly identify themselves as indios still plant boniato and yucca by the four lunar phases, pray to the sun and moon, and ask permission or forgiveness before cutting barks and roots for healing remedies.)<\/p>\n

Dining at El Poeta is a full-on sensory experience.<\/p>\n

Next comes a plate of fresh-caught shrimp in a unique-to-Baracoa well-seasoned sauce\u2014lechita\u2014made of coconut milk and tomatoes and garlic. And pescado con leche de coco\u2014diced fish fillet in coconut sauce. Plus bolas de guineo (plantain balls) in coconut milk\u2026. Bac\u00e1n stuffed with crabmeat\u2026. Octopus grilled in garlic with smoky dried peppers and herbs\u2026. Calal\u00fa with squash, chard, and other greens cooked in coconut milk.\u2026 And frangollo, made of dried, mashed bananas mixed with sugar, pressed into squares and wrapped in banana leaves.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

You\u2019re bombarded with coconuts as you drive up La Farola bound for Baracoa on the switchback that snakes through the serried ranges of the Sierra Cristal. Fortunately, there\u2019s no need to fear being brained\u2026.<\/p>\n

\u201c\u00a1Cucuruch\u00f3! \u00a1Cucuruch\u00f3!\u201d the locals shout, indecipherably, leaping in front of your vehicle and thrusting towards you strange rolled palm-leaf cones (the term cucuruch\u00f3 means cornet). The sticky\u2014and delicious\u2014ambrosial sweet treat inside is shredded coconut cooked with honey or sugar, mixed with orange and sometimes papaya and\/or nuts.<\/p>\n

Others are touting conconcitos: sweet sticky coconut balls. And turr\u00f3n de coco: bars of grated coconut baked with coconut milk and sugar.<\/p>\n

Why these divine treats aren\u2019t made and sold elsewhere in Cuba defies logic.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Chocolate ball at Finca El Duaba cacao plantation, Baracoa, Cuba.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Then there\u2019s the chocolate!<\/p>\n

About half the cultivable land hereabouts is given to coconut palms and cacao. Most of Cuba\u2019s chocolate is produced here, at the state-run F\u00e1brica de Chocolate Che Guevara, which sends luscious aromas of roasted cacao beans wafting through town. Chocolate is everywhere. Sold in shops as dark-brown bars, professionally wrapped, straight from the factory\u2026. Sold as artisanal bonbons made on-site at Casa del Cacao, one block west of the main square (with a bust of Ta\u00edno cacique Hatuey, Cuba\u2019s first martyr) \u2026. Sold on the street as homemade cakes\u2014thick and grainy\u2014wrapped in palm bark\u2026. And appearing in cups of chorote, served hot or cold and made from a ball of cacao paste, grated and set to boil with coconut milk.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Cacao pods at Finca Duaba, Baracoa, Cuba.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Native to the American tropics, Theobroma cacao\u2014\u201cfood of the gods\u201d\u2014was known to pre-Columbian cultures for thousands of years. How appropriate, then, that Baracoa is ground zero of cacao production in Cuba\u2026 of the living Ta\u00edno bloodline\u2026 and of sacred beliefs and traditions that trace back to the pre-Columbian era. Ground zero, too, of Cuba\u2019s only truly distinct cuisine. One spiced by indigenous ingredients and know-how.<\/p>\n

No reservation. Bourdain would have approved.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

*This article was originally published in the 49th Edition of OnCubaTravel Magazine<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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