{"id":301866,"date":"2024-05-10T17:22:41","date_gmt":"2024-05-10T21:22:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/?p=301866"},"modified":"2024-05-10T17:22:41","modified_gmt":"2024-05-10T21:22:41","slug":"my-casablanca","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/digital-channel\/gallery\/glimpse\/my-casablanca\/","title":{"rendered":"My Casablanca"},"content":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s called Casablanca, but no president lives here. It\u2019s Casablanca, but the \u201cplay it again, Sam\u201d thing has never been said here. It is Casablanca, it is in Havana and it is possibly the place that I visited the most times in my childhood and adolescence.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Several men repair a boat in Casablanca, a few days before the snapper run begins. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Casablanca is a fishing town, of humble people, with its shipyards, a battered nautical base, and little else. The jewels in its crown are the picturesque electric train that travels to the town of Hershey, a legacy of times of chocolate booms, and the Christ of Havana, sculpted by Jilma Madera and which stands on a hill from which you can see the bay and all of Havana.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
A fisherman repairs the engine of his boat at the Casablanca sport fishing base. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After years without going, I return to a punished Casablanca, crushed by the intense afternoon sun. A Casablanca that has lost many of the places I remember because of their destruction.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
An old colonial building converted into homes for dozens of people. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Casablanca was the Sunday outing with my mother. The adventure of the boat crossing to the other side of the bay. The smell of the sea \u2014 a dirty, oily sea, but the sea nonetheless. And at the end, the small amusement park where I spent hours playing on the old machines, breathing in the sea breeze that did so much good for my persistent asthma.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
A bread seller on the main street of Casablanca. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My uncle Payo, Captain Estrada, the family sailor who, curiously, never learned to swim, lived in Casablanca for many years.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The corner of the Casablanca polyclinic, a mandatory route to the house of my friend Eliecer or my uncle the sailor. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In my adolescence, my father and his friend Eliecer, may they rest in peace \u2014although, knowing them, I doubt it \u2014 used to end up in the town\u2019s La Chusmita. And I with them. That was a place where the most humble men, port and shipyard workers, mostly black, good and noble people who welcomed a couple of journalists and a very young yours truly as if they were family, gathered to drink beer. I played dice with them for hours drinking hot beer from waxed cardboard cups.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Two teenagers fish on a boat in Casablanca. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From Casablanca I remember the black Chac\u00f3n, alias El Ta\u00edno Tatuado, who used to ride the small boat from one side of the bay to the other, playing a conga drum and slapping his bald, tattooed head with the loudest slaps in the world. He was one of the first people I photographed at the beginning of my career, photos that only God knows where they went.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Crossing the bay by boat at dawn is a pleasant experience. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The small boat was always one of the great attractions of Casablanca. Before it became fashionable to hijack it to Miami, you could travel in the bow and stern or simply hang on the outside, enjoying the views of Havana Bay and feeling the air and salt on your face. This sea trip to Casablanca was something I loved to do with my friends when we were studying \u2014 more like when we weren\u2019t when we were missing classes \u2014 in high school.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
After the kidnappings and attempted kidnappings that occurred at the beginning of the century, the boat always travels under the guard of a member of the National Revolutionary Police. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
In Casablanca there are very few buildings. Most of the buildings are humble and small houses. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I return to Casablanca after many years. Little is left of what I remember. La Chusmita no longer exists and the small park where I played as a child is closed; the machines are broken and eaten away by saltpeter. Most of the houses are on their way to collapse or have already reached total destruction.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The park of my childhood closed who knows why. The Cuban flag flying on the roof of the old and battered small boat that makes the trip between Havana, Casablanca and Regla a hundred times a day. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I ask on a corner about the residence of my old friend the Gran Mago Picadillo \u2014although here he is known by another name. El Guayabo, another lifelong Casablanca man, tells me how to get there, we joke, I take a photo of him and continue only to find the Gran Mago\u2019s house closed. There are other people in the house of my uncle the sailor, who also died years ago and I suppose I will discover the same thing if I go to skinny Eliecer\u2019s. There are no longer dockers drinking beer, nor children on the swings overlooking the bay.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
El Guayabo, a Casablanca man from head to toe. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
This colonial mansion, perhaps the most beautiful building in Casablanca, today is abandoned and destroyed. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Old, colorful and soulless Casablanca house. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Only a few tourists venture through its 100% safe streets searching for a staircase that will take them to visit the Christ statue that crowns the town. That\u2019s another Casablanca; mine, the one I will carry with me in memory, is the one from below, that of the people, the affections, and the sea breeze.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Several people wait for the boat to cross the bay towards the Muelle de Luz, in Havana. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The small boat that crosses the bay travels towards Havana. The Cuban flag flying on the roof of the old and battered boat makes the trip between Havana, Casablanca, and Regla a hundred times a day. Photo: Alejandro Ernesto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

After years without going, I return to a town that has lost many of the places that I remember from my childhood and adolescence.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3761,"featured_media":301881,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[34892],"tags":[12155,8863,19256],"ppma_author":[34081],"class_list":["post-301866","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-glimpse","tag-cuban-photography","tag-cuban-society","tag-featured"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMy Casablanca | OnCubaNews English<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"After years without going, I return to a town that has lost many of the places that I remember from my childhood and adolescence.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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