{"id":326026,"date":"2025-07-21T20:03:39","date_gmt":"2025-07-22T00:03:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/?p=326026"},"modified":"2025-07-21T20:03:39","modified_gmt":"2025-07-22T00:03:39","slug":"summers-in-19th-century-havana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/cuba\/society-cuba\/cuban-history\/summers-in-19th-century-havana\/","title":{"rendered":"Summers in 19th-century Havana"},"content":{"rendered":"

This column recently wrote about the <\/span>Marianao dances<\/span><\/a> as a summertime recreational option for Havana residents in the 19th century and up until the 1950s.<\/span><\/p>\n

Another old custom, in order to alleviate the effects of the heat, was for wealthy families to spend time in their country houses or rent one of those large mansions surrounded by trees, sometimes near a river or the sea, where they enjoyed horseback riding, board games, and abundant fruit.<\/span><\/p>\n

Groups would go horseback riding to towns near the city or ride in horse-drawn carriages. Those with ample income traveled abroad. It was the ultimate experience.<\/span><\/p>\n

Some, tempted by what people said, by the harmful custom of appearances’ sake, so deeply rooted, if they couldn\u2019t go to Europe and the United States, would make it up. A piece written by the chronicler Cesar Cancio, published in <\/span>El F\u00edgaro<\/span><\/i> in 1889, said:<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cMany families disappear from Havana and leave cards for their acquaintances saying goodbye because they were going to Paris; but instead went to the countryside for a hunt, or a luncheon, or a hideaway, and the first thing you do is notice that on this little farm or that farm, under a light thatched-roofed house, is the family everyone thinks is in Paris, eating their guts out and biting their nails and with a dog\u2019s face. And this is a family morally dead forever, and its very friends are the Zacatecas who lead it to the grave of ridicule, accompanied by mockery and the use of metaphors.\u201d<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Dancing in the gazebo, boat rides, and swimming in the sea attracted Havana summer season vacationers who flocked to Marianao beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Don C\u00e1ndido\u2019s baths<\/b><\/h3>\n

The medicinal baths in the mineral waters that flowed from springs in Madruga, Guanabacoa, Santa Mar\u00eda del Rosario, San Diego and Marianao also attracted summer vacationers.<\/span><\/p>\n

By the second half of the 19th century, another option had become established: sea bathing, which, due to its proximity to the city, was more feasible.<\/span><\/p>\n

In the summer of 1895, the Third War of Independence was taking place in Cuba, which had begun on February 24 of that year. Amid the tension of the conflict, businessman C\u00e1ndido G\u00f3mez was promoting his business in Havana: a beach resort on Marianao beach, where he had several cabins, refurbished for the occasion.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThese Marianao baths have always been famous for their strong breeze and clean waters, perfectly hygienic due to their location far from any spot where horses are bathed and trash is thrown. But despite their perfect isolation and admirable natural conditions, it must be admitted that they had been somewhat neglected until Mr. C\u00e1ndido G\u00f3mez, their current owner, has undertaken significant works and introduced renovations that surely make them comparable with the best of their kind in the United States and Europe,\u201d<\/span><\/i> announced <\/span>El F\u00edgaro<\/span><\/i>, with a photo illustrating the changes that had taken place in C\u00e1ndido\u2019s venture.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
In the summer of 1895, businessman C\u00e1ndido G\u00f3mez restored the facilities of the baths he owned on Marianao beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The season began on June 1. To reserve 30 private baths, one had to pay 3 pesos; a private bath cost 15 cents, and a public bath cost 10 cents.<\/span><\/p>\n

By train<\/b><\/h3>\n

Transportation was guaranteed thanks to the efficiency of the railway company managed by John A. McLean, which increased the number of trips to Marianao beach starting on May 15. In 1887, a train departed from Concha Station to the Sam\u00e1 stop (in the town of Marianao) every hour from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., later at 9:30 a.m., 10:30 a.m., and the last at 12:30 a.m.<\/span><\/p>\n

From Concha to the beach, via a branch line, they departed every hour from 6:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. The day was rounded off by two night trips, at 9:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. From Marianao to the beach, they planned itineraries every hour, from 5:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., with two extra trips, at 10:30 p.m. and 11:30 p.m.<\/span><\/p>\n

An announcement published in the <\/span>Diario de la Marina<\/span><\/i> added:<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cSo that residents of Havana and surrounding towns can use the amenities of the beach, the Company Administration will sell passes for 30 round-trip first-class rides, including a reserved bathroom, at the following prices: from Concha, 16 gold pesos; Tulip\u00e1n and Cerro, 15 gold pesos; Puentes and Ceiba, 13.75; Quemados and Sam\u00e1, 7.50.\u201d<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

The Vedado baths<\/b><\/h3>\n

Although the El Progreso baths, located on E Street and the Malec\u00f3n in Vedado, reached their greatest splendor in the early decades of the 20th century, they were already a recreational site in the previous century. And there were others. Our colleague Ciro Bianchi tells us:<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cAround 1895, there was notable development in \u2018the charming village of El Vedado,\u2019 as the poet Juli\u00e1n del Casal calls it in one of his chronicles. The proximity of the sea made the area gain importance. Along the coastline, from G to 6, several beach resorts were established around 1864. E Street was popularly known as Ba\u00f1os (Baths) because it led to the pools of the El Progreso beach resort. Another of these establishments, Las Playas, was located at the end of D Street, while the Carneado baths were located on what today would be Malec\u00f3n and Paseo streets. People bathed at the time in what were called drowning pools, which took advantage of the arrangement of the rocks or were artificially dug into them. There were small ones, with places reserved for the family, and others, very large, where men and women bathed separately.\u201d<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

In 1890, <\/span>La Uni\u00f3n Constitucional<\/span><\/i> announced that El Progreso had, in addition to the public pools, a splendid hall for family gatherings, matinees, dances, and retreats.<\/span><\/p>\n

The building\u2019s owner built independent apartments for families on the second floor, with a living room, dining room, three bedrooms, a kitchen, and a toilet, furnished or unfurnished, according to the client\u2019s taste. On the ground floor, there were rooms for single men.<\/span><\/p>\n

A peek at the neighbor<\/b><\/h3>\n

Those who couldn\u2019t afford private baths at the San L\u00e1zaro resorts wouldn\u2019t stop going, as chronicler Wenceslao G\u00e1lvez jokingly said in 1894, <\/span>\u201cto show off that they were bathing and to see if the neighbor was wearing a darned stocking or cotton camisoles with sleeves. This is the plague of the resort. The others who show themselves, just as they are, in the bath, without blush or makeup, don\u2019t compromise with those who only come to see and gossip about what they\u2019ve seen and what they haven\u2019t seen.\u201d<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

The names of the baths most frequently promoted in the press were: El\u00edseos, Las Delicias (also known as De la Isle\u00f1a), San Rafael, Romaguera, Militares, Saratoga, de Miguel, among others.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The pools were covered by \u201cflimsy sheds…whose zinc roofs would flap in the air at the first gust of hurricane-force wind,\u201d Federico Villoch recalled in one of his <\/span>Viejas postales descoloridas<\/span><\/i>. Near these establishments, houses were rented to summer season vacationers.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Among Coj\u00edmar\u2019s historical attractions was the tower, founded on July 15, 1649. Its construction was carried out by the engineer Juan Bautista Antonelli, Jr.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Coj\u00edmar<\/b><\/h3>\n

In those distant times, the beaches of Santa Cruz and Coj\u00edmar were gaining popularity.<\/span><\/p>\n

Francisco Tabernilla and Arturo Fonts, local promoters of the picturesque Coj\u00edmar beach resort, organized excursions from Havana and worked to improve the site\u2019s infrastructure.<\/span><\/p>\n

Journalist Fernando G. Campoamor, in one of his scenes published in <\/span>Opina<\/span><\/i>, noted: <\/span>\u201cUsing a phrase common to our great-grandparents, the Boca de Coj\u00edmar area was \u2018of a healthy and benign temperament, and its surroundings had a cheerful appearance.\u2019\u201d<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To travel to Coj\u00edmar, tourists took the train from Havana to Guanabacoa. At the bus stop, they would wait for the so-called guaguas, carriages pulled by mules and horses, that would take them to the beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This healthy climate and beautiful scenery, along with abundant game hunting and swimming in the calm harbor, made it a refuge for short breaks during the summers and the setting for pleasant outings, even though it only had one street, the classic Calle Real of all the King\u2019s towns.<\/span><\/p>\n

By 1846, there were 184 residents with some mixed shops and some masonry houses. Later, they added eight streets and even an avenue \u2014 also known as the Calzada Real \u2014 and paved the old horse and cart path that took them out of their inlet.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Establishment built on Coj\u00edmar beach for vacationers.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tourists traveled from Havana by train to Guanabacoa. At the bus stop, the so-called guaguas, carriages pulled by mules and horses, waited. The avenue was almost always in poor condition and, since the climb up the hill was difficult, passengers sometimes had to get off to lighten their load and, if necessary, push the guagua.<\/span><\/p>\n

In 1895, the number of pools was increased, and the Hotel Mortera continued to provide services. Already at that time, as a columnist in the <\/span>Diario de la Marina<\/span><\/i> would say, \u201cgoing to Coj\u00edmar is like going to heaven, because life is wonderful there.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

________________________________________<\/span><\/p>\n

Sources:<\/b><\/p>\n

Cuba y Am\u00e9rica<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

Diario de la Marina<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

El F\u00edgaro<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

Opina<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

Uni\u00f3n Constitutional<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

Archive of the Office of the City of Havana Historian <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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