{"id":331621,"date":"2025-11-28T14:14:25","date_gmt":"2025-11-28T19:14:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/?p=331621"},"modified":"2025-11-28T14:14:25","modified_gmt":"2025-11-28T19:14:25","slug":"chronicles-from-isle-of-youth-a-black-sand-beach","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/cuba\/chronicles-from-isle-of-youth-a-black-sand-beach\/","title":{"rendered":"Chronicles from Isle of Youth: a black sand beach"},"content":{"rendered":"

I must have been about four years old, and he was fifteen or sixteen. Perhaps that day I had left Llorca, my daycare, early. Or\u00a0maybe I\u00a0had stayed home recovering from a bad cold, although in those days children\u00a0weren\u2019t\u00a0suspended for runny noses, so I\u00a0don\u2019t\u00a0know. Nobody remembers that day. Only me.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I remember I\u00a0didn\u2019t\u00a0know how to put my swimsuit\u00a0on properly and I had\u00a0a\u00a0hard\u00a0time. I put my feet where your arms\u00a0go\u00a0and my brother had to fix that mess. I remember Sandor taking me down a little street in Gerona on his bicycle. On the beach there was a little wooden\u00a0bridge\u00a0and the sand was dazzling white, like flour for making cakes. The water was\u00a0clear\u00a0and crabs walked along the bottom, leaving crisscrossing lines that formed figures I could understand.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

That\u2019s\u00a0the only beach I remember on the Isle of Youth, the one my brother took me to without the adults\u2019\u00a0permission.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I wanted to go to that same little beach, El Pescador,\u00a0I think it\u00a0was, according to my memory and what people tell me. But my mother, my brother and everyone else told me to go to\u00a0Bibijagua, better than any other beach on the\u00a0Isle.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

They told me to search my memory, that I was sure to find some image, even a blurry one, of my toes digging holes in the\u00a0jet-black sand.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Waiting
Waiting for the sun. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Bibijagua\u00a0was, then, the first beach on the list, even though I had no memory of it. We arrived at six in the morning on the electric scooter of\u00a0Danielito, our friend Mary\u2019s cousin. He went to great lengths to fulfill every whim of memory and took us to every place, near or far, on the Isle\u00a0that his battery\u00a0charge\u00a0could handle.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Arriving at\u00a0Bibijagua\u00a0at night\u00a0wasn\u2019t\u00a0exactly a whim, but rather the pleasant command of Unger, the Isle\u2019s historian.\u00a0\u201cThe most beautiful sunrise on the entire Isle of Youth is at\u00a0Bibijagua\u00a0beach.\u201d\u00a0And\u00a0off\u00a0we went as if it were an order from high command to arrive before the sun rose.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"The
The empty beach. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When we arrived, the first thing we saw was a huge, covered space, freshly\u00a0painted\u00a0and completely empty.\u00a0Perhaps it\u00a0used to have lockers, although as a dance floor\u00a0it\u2019s\u00a0priceless. Later I learned that young people use it to play soccer when they get bored of\u00a0the saltwater.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Everything was very dark, but we could make out the palm trees and the umbrellas made of palm fronds. We walked around the entire place in the dark, like\u00a0good beach\u00a0rangers. As dawn broke, we chatted with Diego and Oliver about the unique feature of that beach: its black sand.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"My
My family\u00a0playing\u00a0on a stunning black\u00a0sand beach. Photo: Isabel Cristina.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Oliver\u00a0throwing\u00a0his
Oliver throwing his favorite color sand balls. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Black sand beaches exist in various places around the world, from Polynesia to New Zealand. There are black sand beaches in California, Hawaii, Saint Lucia, Puerto Rico, Spain, Indonesia,\u00a0Tahiti\u00a0and many other countries. It is said that the jet-black color originates from ancient volcanic activity.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

As the sun peeked over the horizon and allowed us to appreciate the landscape, we looked at photos of other black sand beaches around the world. Some of them have calm waters, perfect for a family day out; others have dangerous, extremely\u00a0cold waters\u00a0with wild tides and waves.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cLuckily, we have\u00a0Bibijagua\u00a0in Cuba,\u201d\u00a0I told my children, and with that enthusiastic phrase, the debate began, even in the darkness of six-something in the morning, about whether there were other black sand beaches in the Cuban archipelago. And yes, people say there are dark sand beaches in other provinces, but that brilliant,\u00a0mysterious\u00a0and pure black is only found on the Isle of Youth.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"A
A very exotic beach. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Fishermen\u00a0also
Fishermen also get up early. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When dawn finally broke, we put aside the photos of black sand beaches around the world and focused on this beautiful little wonder that\u00a0doesn\u2019t\u00a0appear in Google\u2019s lists. On our list of requests,\u00a0recommendations\u00a0and whims of memory,\u00a0Bibijagua\u00a0was the first destination.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We were alone on the beach, enjoying a much-anticipated sunrise in four\u00a0different ways. The sun rose gently, and little by little we discovered the place, each in our own way.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Oliver exclaimed,\u00a0\u201cOh my God,\u00a0it\u2019s\u00a0black,\u00a0it\u2019s\u00a0true! We\u00a0weren\u2019t\u00a0scammed!\u201d\u00a0Diego discovered that\u00a0there\u2019s\u00a0a lot of green grass and sargassum all along the shore. I was struck by how fine the sand is, like the sand in my memory of the beach my brother took me to when I was four years old. Jorge photographed\u00a0a fisherman\u00a0in the distance and, even further away, spotted a boat.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Saltwater
Saltwater worm. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Black
Black sand and white stones on the same beach. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Jorgito\u00a0discovered that if you\u00a0dig\u00a0a deep hole in the sand,\u00a0salt\u00a0worms appear, like those found in fertile soil.\u00a0Perhaps that\u2019s\u00a0why the lush, green grass grows\u00a0in\u00a0the black sand. Oliver discovered that the water was warm,\u00a0\u201clike jacuzzi water,\u201d\u00a0according to him, even though\u00a0he\u2019s\u00a0never been in one. Diego realized that the sun\u00a0doesn\u2019t\u00a0bother your eyes like it does when light splashes off the white sand of any ordinary beach. I enjoyed examining the contrast between the black sand and the white stones that looked like half quartz and half marble.\u00a0Perhaps the\u00a0volcanic rock and black marble, weathered for centuries by the ebb and flow of the waves, are the\u00a0reason\u00a0the sunrise\u00a0isn\u2019t\u00a0orange, like any other beautiful sunrise.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Toys
Toys that had never touched black sand. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Oliver
Oliver wanted to stay there forever. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We\u00a0had\u00a0the beach entirely\u00a0to\u00a0ourselves for\u00a0almost\u00a0three hours. We played at taking family photos, those typical ones you\u00a0post\u00a0on Facebook or show to friends following your trip. We also played at taking\u00a0\u201cmagazine-worthy\u201d\u00a0photos, just in case\u00a0Bibijagua\u00a0ever makes the list of the world\u2019s most impressive black sand beaches.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Around 9:00 a.m., the entertainers arrived and put on a playlist. The vendors selling snacks and soft drinks also arrived, and we had a snack for the same price as if we were in our neighborhood, half Nuevo Vedado and half Cerro.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We asked why there\u00a0weren\u2019t\u00a0many people on the beach; it seemed\u00a0very late\u00a0to us, since\u00a0we\u2019d\u00a0been awake since 5:00 a.m. They explained that the buses left La Cubana at 9:00 a.m. and that people were already arriving, that the beach got crowded because the transportation was state-run.\u00a0So\u00a0we decided to wait for the first bus to arrive before leaving.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"My
My feet. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"My
My hands. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When people started arriving, we could see that, indeed, the beach\u00a0gets\u00a0crowded. We arrived at 6 a.m. and left at 10 a.m., after experiencing what historian Unger described as the most beautiful sunrise on the\u00a0Isle \u2014\u00a0a claim we, as a family, wholeheartedly agree with.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Since\u00a0we\u2019re\u00a0early risers, we had the rest of the day to visit other places and continue marveling at that small, genuine beauty that defies easy categorization. We took a handful of black sand with us, hoping other visitors\u00a0wouldn\u2019t\u00a0do the same. We left\u00a0very happy\u00a0and excited, because while we\u00a0didn\u2019t\u00a0see the Northern Lights from\u00a0Stokksnes, Iceland, we did see the sunrise in\u00a0Bibijagua.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Ready
Ready for another adventure on the\u00a0island. Photo: Jorge Ricardo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Arriving at Bibijagua at night wasn\u2019t exactly a whim, but rather the pleasant command of Unger, the historian of the Isle of Youth. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3134,"featured_media":331625,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[13902,47],"tags":[19256,34937,12596],"ppma_author":[15052],"class_list":["post-331621","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cuba","category-cubans","tag-featured","tag-history-of-cuba","tag-isla-de-la-juventud-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nChronicles from Isle of Youth: a black sand beach | OnCubaNews English<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/cuba\/chronicles-from-isle-of-youth-a-black-sand-beach\/\" \/>\n<meta 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