{"id":44881,"date":"2015-04-09T19:52:54","date_gmt":"2015-04-09T23:52:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/oncubamagazine.com\/?p=44881"},"modified":"2015-04-09T19:55:40","modified_gmt":"2015-04-09T23:55:40","slug":"filling-the-demand-for-ethnic-food-in-havana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/cuba\/economy\/foreign-investment-in-cuba\/filling-the-demand-for-ethnic-food-in-havana\/","title":{"rendered":"Filling the Demand for Ethnic Food in Havana"},"content":{"rendered":"

Last week investors keen on Cuba met in New York City at the Cuba Opportunity Summit to try to figure out their place in Cuba\u2019s opening economy.\u00a0 Meanwhile, in Havana, silverware clinks and waiters balance trays in restaurants already financed and managed by foreign entrepreneurs who have placed early bets on the island.<\/p>\n

The last vestiges of ethnic food in Cuba disappeared with the Soviet Union. Imports dried up and the few ingredients that did arrive to restaurant kitchens were shuffled out the back door to sell on the informal market. Customers would save time ordering by simply asking the waiter for the food that was<\/em> available.\u00a0 Invariably the selection would come down to the stereotypical rice, beans and pork\u2026 maybe a pizza as well, but don\u2019t push it.<\/p>\n

From the early 1990\u2019s up until now state restaurants that advertise as having \u201cItalian\u201d, \u201cPolynesian\u201d, or \u201cChinese\u201d food have pretty much the same interchangeable menu as any other state restaurant.<\/p>\n

Fortunately everybody got tired of the charade that a government trying to keep the extensive public health, education and transportation system afloat could also manage the finer points of an entire country\u2019s gastronomic needs.<\/p>\n

Restaurants, cafes, cafeterias, bistros, and bars were on the first list of private businesses allowed to be opened by Cubans in 2011.<\/p>\n

In that first year around 400 licenses were issued in Havana alone.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>
Photo by Roby Gallego<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Setting up Shop in Cuba<\/h2>\n

\u201cMy family owns a restaurant in Rome so when I moved to Havana with my wife we decided it made sense to open a place in Havana\u201d, said Alessandro Canfora, owner of La Isla de la Pasta<\/em> on 23rd<\/sup> and 6th<\/sup> in the Vedado neighborhood. \u201cThings are rough in Europe right now, so why not Cuba?\u201d<\/p>\n

As we are talking he is keeping an eye on one of his sons and giving directions to some construction workers out the window.<\/p>\n

Alessandro and his wife, Havana native Yanelys Noemi, turned the front half of their first floor apartment into one of the few Italian food eateries in Havana that offers more than doughy pizza and questionable lasagna.<\/p>\n

\u201cSure we make our own pasta, it is cut with a hand cranked machine,\u201d said Alessandro, who is all smiles about the labor intensive process.<\/p>\n

Maybe in a first world Italian bistro homemade pasta would be a niche selling point. In Havana it\u2019s a necessity. Waiting for supplies to arrive in the grocery store would be too hit and miss to keep a functioning menu. Importing directly from Italy would make prices impossibly high.<\/p>\n

\u201cKeeping our prices reasonable makes sure that we have a mix of Cuban and foreign customers.\u201d As Alessandro spoke I looked around the small dining room, three of the four tables were occupied. Two by Cubans and one by a group of Spaniards. Alessandro thanked everyone personally as they left.<\/p>\n

Using local ingredients not only keeps prices close to what at least a few locals can afford, it also reintroduces elements of the unexpected into ethnic cooking.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe ran out of habanero peppers the first week of our soft opening,\u201d Andr\u00e9s Buenfil G\u00f3mez, manager of El Chile Habanero<\/em> told me apologetically when I asked if the Campeche native was serving traditional Yucatan salsa with the pulled pork tacos, \u201cso we are using hot peppers native to Cuba\u201d.<\/p>\n

Andr\u00e9s opened the restaurant El Chile Habanero<\/em> a few weeks ago in the relatively poor and run down residential neighborhood of Santo Suarez on the south side of Havana. Not only was he not afraid to experiment in the kitchen, he is also not afraid to experiment with location.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve got new customers every day plus dedicated followers coming here three or four times a week\u201d,\u00a0 Andr\u00e9s responds matter-of-factly to my questioning his location. \u201cOur food is in demand and I\u2019m the only one doing it, so I\u2019m allowed to take risks with location\u201d.<\/p>\n

With Cuba\u2019s growing Mexican expat population and several daily flights between the two countries he probably has a better handle on the market than people give him credit for. After all, like Alessandro, Andr\u00e9s comes to Cuba with years of experience managing a restaurant in his homeland.<\/p>\n

Back on Vedado\u2019s 23rd<\/sup> street Iranian native Nourbakht Farrokh has added a culinary element to his 15 year cultural exchange program in Cuba. The Persian restaurant Topoly, in addition to a full menu of traditional foods, also has nightly exhibitions of Iranian dance, poetry and music.<\/p>\n

Noubakht and his Cuban friends fixed up a colonial house then replaced Cuban coffee and cigars with hookahs and tea.<\/p>\n

Topoly functions as a vehicle for promoting culture with part of the income going to fund cultural interchanges such as last year\u00b4s Festival of International Poetry in Havana and the two week long Iranian Film Festival.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>
Photo by Roby Gallego<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not without problems<\/h2>\n

\u201cNo matter where you open a restaurant there are risks\u201d, Alessandro tells me when I ask about the business environment in Cuba.<\/p>\n

Cuba presents its particular set of challenges. Foreigners can\u2019t just come and put their names on all the paperwork, at least not yet. Alessandro and Andr\u00e9s are both married to Cubans, whereas Nourbakht is collaborating as a cultural consultant at Topoly.<\/p>\n

Alessandro laments that they can\u2019t yet serve wine because their business license is only for a cafeteria, not a fully fledged restaurant. They will have the full license once they finish expanding La Isla de la Pasta<\/em>, currently underway.<\/p>\n

Lack of access to fast internet and the latest technology means business is sometimes done in a pre-digital world. The plus side is that transactions are 100{bb302c39ef77509544c7d3ea992cb94710211e0fa5985a4a3940706d9b0380de} cash, thus avoiding credit card processing fees.<\/p>\n

Zoning restrictions don\u00b4t quite exist in Cuba. Basically if you own the building and get a license to operate a business you are good to go. This is preserving Havana\u2019s unique cosmopolitanism and creating some interesting combinations that are contrary to the predictable conformity of centralized control that originally doomed ethnic food in Cuba.<\/p>\n

In 2015 Cuba is a place where an Iranian restaurant such as Topoly can be neighbors with the newly opened gay night club King Bar (innocent looking in English but when said aloud is a vulgar word for copulation in Spanish).<\/p>\n

Communist Caribbean meets free market; Iranian restaurant meets gay club neighbors. Welcome to the jungle.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Last week investors keen on Cuba met in New York City at the Cuba Opportunity Summit to try to figure out their place in Cuba\u2019s opening economy.\u00a0 Meanwhile, in Havana, silverware clinks and waiters balance trays in restaurants already financed and managed by foreign entrepreneurs who have placed early bets on the island. The last […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3184,"featured_media":44883,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_social_meta":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[13905],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[33823,11319],"class_list":["post-44881","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-foreign-investment-in-cuba"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFilling the Demand for Ethnic Food in Havana | OnCubaNews English<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/oncubanews.com\/en\/cuba\/economy\/foreign-investment-in-cuba\/filling-the-demand-for-ethnic-food-in-havana\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Filling the Demand for Ethnic Food in Havana | OnCubaNews English\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Last week investors keen on Cuba met in New York City at the Cuba Opportunity Summit to try to figure out their place in Cuba\u2019s opening economy.\u00a0 Meanwhile, in Havana, silverware clinks and waiters balance trays in restaurants already financed and managed by foreign entrepreneurs who have placed early bets on the island. 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