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Cecilia in the heart of Old Havana

Located meters from the main entrance of the Santo Ángel Custodio church, on Compostela Street, she seems to walk slowly and with a distressed expression.

by
  • Kaloian Santos
    Kaloian Santos
October 1, 2023
in Columns, Gallery
0
Sculpture of Cecilia Valdés in Old Havana. Photo: Kaloian.

Sculpture of Cecilia Valdés in Old Havana. Photo: Kaloian.

I hurried around the corner, texting that I would be a few minutes late. Without taking my eyes off the screen, I noticed the silhouette of a figure almost next to me, and I stopped dead. I looked up and saw that I almost hit the sculpture of Cecilia Valdés, the beautiful protagonist of one of the upholders of Cuban literature, the homonymous novel written in 1882 by Cirilo Villaverde (1812-1894).

The front of the Santo Ángel Custodio church. Photo: Kaloian.

Located meters from the main entrance of the Santo Ángel Custodio church, on Compostela Street, Old Havana, Cecilia seems to walk slowly and with a distressed expression.

I have passed by here several times. Always passing through, I have ascended Cuarteles Street or the aforementioned Compostela to Loma del Ángel, as the small mound on which the neo-Gothic style church was built in 1695 is known. Of course, I have come across the sculpted Cecilia Valdés by the young Cuban artist Erig Rebull and inaugurated in 2014 for the bicentennial (two years before) of Villaverde.

However, if it had not been for the fact that I almost collided with it, I would not have stopped to appreciate the outlined lines that shaped the physiognomy of the work of art.

The subtle expression of sadness in her eyes of the sculpture of Cecilia Valdés. Photo: Kaloian.

Cecilia Valdés or La Loma del Ángel, the full title of the book, is not only the story of a tragic love, but also a critical portrait of Cuban society in the first half of the 19th century, marked by slavery and racial tensions.

In the plot, Cecilia is a young mestiza, daughter of a mulatto woman and a Spaniard, who lives in the turbulent context of colonial Cuba. Her beauty and grace dazzle everyone, including Leonardo Gamboa, a young white man of good standing. The love story between them (incestuous, moreover, since they are brothers on their father’s side) is tainted by racial and social prejudices and is doomed from the beginning to a tragic end.

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The sculpture of Cecilia Valdés, work of the Cuban artist Erig Rebull. Photo: Kaloian.

In its immutable silence, the sculpture seems to whisper the secrets and passions contained in the novel. Rebull managed to capture the essence of the character masterfully. The statue is so natural that the limits between the 18 parts painstakingly welded to form the final piece go unnoticed. The delicate details of Cecilia’s face are surprising, the subtle expression of sadness in her eyes, the loose dress that drags on the floor, the hairstyle and the grace of her posture with a fan…

“Her likeness evoked the virgins portrayed by the most famous painters,” can be read about the young mulatto girl in the second chapter of the novel.

The details of the sculpture stand out and surprise. Photo: Kaloian.

The sculptural work also contains something of the artist’s love and pain. In the middle of the creation process, Erig Rebull’s girlfriend, Gisell Fundora, died at only 32 years old. She had been the inspiring muse and model to give shape to the Cecilia in bronze.

The sculpture of Cecilia Valdés, a few steps from the main entrance of the Santo Ángel Custodio church. Photo: Kaloian.

Cecilia Valdés de la Loma del Ángel comes to life in her everyday environment. Its location coincides with the geographical point where the final outcome and the saddest scene of the novel takes place: Leonardo’s murder (sorry for the spoiler).

The Santo Ángel Custodio church, on Compostela Street, in Old Havana. Photo: Kaloian.

It was the idea of Eusebio Leal, the Havana historian, who had the vision of giving life to Cecilia Valdés through sculpture, paying tribute to Cuban literature. The initiative adds to the tribute that Cirilo Villaverde received in this same place in 1946, when a plaque was unveiled in his honor.

Rear view of the Santo Ángel Custodio church. Photo: Kaloian.
View from the corner of Compostela Street and Peña Pobre Alley. In the background, at the top of Loma del Ángel, the Santo Ángel Custodio church and the sculpture of Cecilia Valdés. Photo: Kaloian.

Almost as I leave, I pan my camera around the square and its surroundings. I open the angle to explore its buildings with historic facades, balconies adorned with vines and large windows that seem to bear witness to the passing of time. In this peaceful corner of the city, pedestrians are scarce.

Two neighbors sitting on a bench on Loma del Ángel, where there is a bust of the writer Cirilo Villaverde. Photo: Kaloian.
The bust of Cirilo Villaverde installed in 1946 on the Loma del Ángel, in front of the Santo Ángel Custodio church where the sculpture of Cecilia Valdés has been installed since 2014. Photo: Kaloian.

In the midst of the serenity, a figure appears that stands out in the surroundings. She is a girl who seems to have emerged from the pages of a novel. She evokes Cecilia, “the Cuban woman who carries in her indomitable heart all the fierceness and hope of Cuba, and in her eyes, all the fire,” as José Martí (who was baptized by the way in the Santo Ángel Custodio church) wrote. He published this in the edition of the newspaper Patria on October 30, 1894, just days after the death of his compatriot Cirilo Villaverde, in New York, where the novel was published for the first time and where both writers shared exile.

Part of the architecture of colonial Havana in front of the Santo Ángel Custodio church. Photo: Kaloian.

The warm and soft light of the afternoon, which filters through Cuarteles Street, illuminates her face with a heavenly grace of that young woman. My mind wanders, and for a moment I wonder if Cecilia Valdés’ sculpture has come to life to walk among us.

Inspired by the moment, I decide to approach the young woman and ask her to let me photograph her. She accepts with a kind smile and poses with a naturalness that shows her innate elegance.

A young woman who seems to have emerged from the pages of a novel evokes the character of Cecilia Valdés. Photo: Kaloian.

I prefer not to inquire about the name or history of my subject. I like the idea of carrying with me the fantasy that, in some corner of Loma del Ángel, Cecilia Valdés still walks, spreading grace and charm in the heart of Old Havana.

The bell tower of the Santo Ángel Custodio in the midst of the colonial architecture of Old Havana. Photo: Kaloian

 

  • Kaloian Santos
    Kaloian Santos
Tags: Cuban cultureCuban literatureHavana
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