Reporting on what is happening in Lenin Park is not easy; it involves confronting conflicting and not very constructive positions. On the one hand, there are those who criticize in order to sow discord. On the other, there are those who deny reality, clinging to a forced optimism, claiming that the park will be operational “tomorrow.” Both positions end up attracting nostalgic individuals who offer no real solutions.
The truth is that, although we have seen the destruction, little has been done to investigate its causes. Lenin Park is a colossal architectural work, costing millions of pesos, inaugurated in 1972. Since then, it has been an inseparable symbol of the Cuban social project. Its deterioration, therefore, acts as a thermometer for the country’s crisis.
Its decline is not an isolated incident, but rather a reflection of larger problems: administrative inefficiency, excessive centralization, the economic crisis and a society where individual survival takes precedence over the common good.
The incompetence of recent administrations was evident in decisions such as abandoning the original facilities — for example, the network of cafes — to replace them with makeshift kiosks, squandering resources that could have been allocated to maintenance. Added to this are corruption and budgetary waste, which are rarely openly mentioned.
The abrupt departure of the last general manager in 2022, after a tenure that, despite everything, kept the park active, gave way to a succession of leaders without a sense of belonging, which generated apathy, poor service and even mistreatment of visitors.
At the same time, the low price of the services offered at the Park, covered by a disproportionate state subsidy, did not allow it to generate sufficient revenue to cover repairs and maintenance, which limited its financial autonomy.
Despite having been prioritized in state plans, the Park experienced years of institutional instability, passing through different ministries. Between 2010 and 2012, it was financially neglected, without receiving resources or generating its own revenue, which worsened the deterioration of its infrastructure. Significant investments arrived during the “thaw” period with the United States, evidenced by the reopening of the Amphitheater in 2017 with the presence of Miguel Díaz-Canel, then vice president.
But the COVID-19 pandemic was a devastating blow: facilities closed, salaries lost value after the Reorganization Task, maintenance was abandoned and staff was reduced, making it impossible to protect and conserve the park’s areas.
The harsh years of the pandemic and the economic crisis hit the Park, like other facilities, hard. The attempt at business transformation for its 50th anniversary in 2022, seeking financial autonomy through the creation of 14 Base Business Units (UEB), failed to reverse the deterioration or stem citizen criticism, as dependence on subsidies and a lack of income kept it economically unviable.
During the pandemic lockdown, the lack of security led to the systematic looting of cables, light bulbs, windows and metal structures; much of the park’s heritage was destroyed. The authorities, lacking resources or personnel, could do little, while some benefited from the chaos.
The combination of these factors has resulted in Lenin Park now being a ruin. With honest management, community participation and genuine prioritization, the park could have been saved.
Without profound changes in the way public resources are managed and citizens are involved in the rescue of emblematic spaces like this one, we will likely continue to witness the decline and loss of our common heritage.
The Amphitheater
This is one of the most impressive buildings in Lenin Park, conceived as a tropical tribute to Greek and Roman amphitheaters. Its 1,200 seats were built with limestone blocks carved into the shapes of chairs and armchairs, between which grass grew in a controlled manner, providing a natural ambiance. A large floating platform served as a stage for plays and large concerts.
The Aquarium: soft music of pine trees
It’s one of the most painfully deteriorated facilities. Located on a small rise surrounded by pine trees, it was designed for freshwater fish. Its spiral design allowed for a pleasant walk. The fish tanks embedded in the interior wall offered naturally lit views, and at the end, one exited onto a patio with a staircase leading to the roof.
Upon entering, it takes a few minutes to undo the lump in one’s throat. For those who saw it in its splendor — gleaming hallways, stained-glass windows that tinged the light red, yellow and blue — its current decay can bring tears to their eyes.
From the roof, the solemnity of the place is impressive. Breeze and silence, a liturgical silence interrupted only by the deep drone of an airplane that casts the shadow of its wings on the pine trees. These beautiful trees, have scattered their resins, twigs and seeds there. When the wind blows, they sing a soft music. If the visitor appreciates the sublime, they might see the fish swimming again.
Miguel Montano and the treasure on the hill
About 50 meters from the base of the monument, on the right side of the path, a small building catches the eye. It appears to be in good condition. A carob tree extends its branches over the roof. A little man emerges from behind some red fabrics that act as a curtain.
Miguel Montano began working in Lenin Park in 1988. After working in various areas, he was assigned as caretaker of the Lenin monument, sculpted in 1984 by the Soviet artist Lev Kerbel in pearly gray marble brought from the Sierra de las Casas, Isle of Youth. Since 1991, Miguel has protected the monument and the protocol house from vandalism.
Montano points out that the lack of knowledge and of ownership of the last directors contributed to the deterioration. The helplessness of being unable to stop the looting plunged him into grief. Some nights, from the hill he heard the blows of sledgehammers destroying the Aquarium. He decided not to return to that place again.
But vandals are now prowling the hill. One night, they destroyed the underground power lines and stole several meters of cable, leaving Miguel without electricity for five months.
Recovering it wasn’t easy: between complaints and pleas, they finally managed to install poles.
Miguel has lost his optimism. He doesn’t believe the park can recover. Of all his requests, he only wants to send one message: “Please, don’t steal anymore.”
La Mariposa no longer flies
In 2007, the last major investment was made in the recreational area, and it was decided to create a new theme park called La Mariposa (butterfly). It was an ambitious project, with an estimated cost of $10 million. Purchased from a Chinese cooperative, it included the assistance of foreign technicians to install 28 pieces of equipment, including the roller coaster, the airboat, the cosmonaut, the giant swing, and the modernized Ferris wheel.
It was expected to have a useful life of ten years with regular maintenance. But no anti-corrosion paint system was planned, and in just over five years, the equipment began to deteriorate.
In 2015, Yaneisi Hernández, director of La Mariposa park, told Cubadebate that most of the equipment was out of service due to breakage and missing parts. Some had been declared inoperable. The income generated did not cover maintenance costs.
On its 50th anniversary (2022), only six of the 17 pieces of equipment still in existence were working. The roller coaster and the Ferris wheel had not gone round for six years.
La Mariposa had lost its wings. The promises of restoration never materialized.
Unless there’s a miracle
Currently, only three pieces of equipment are in good condition: the dinosaurs, the elephants and the giant boat. They were recovered thanks to collaboration with the Union of Military Industries. Although they were painted and their mobility restored, they no longer work as before because the air system that activated the pistons was not recovered.
Furthermore, the electric boards necessary for their operation were removed from the park without explanation and never returned.
The giant boat is planned to be used as an ice cream stand. It will not be possible to make it work because it is very difficult to recover its components.
The workers do not believe the equipment will be operational again soon, despite the general director’s optimistic statements to the Portal del Ciudadano de La Habana. Some have simply lost hope and believe that they will only be able to function again if there’s a miracle.
