Tired of the power outages, Daniela García and Brian Nicolau shouldered two backpacks and embarked on a unique adventure: cycling all over Cuba. The journey, which began last November, is divided into three stages: the first will take them from Havana to Cabo de San Antonio; the second will end at Punta de Maisí; and the third and final stage will take them to the Isle of Youth. In total, they estimate that the three legs will take them about four months.
“With Cuba en Bici, besides creating beautiful memories, we want to show that sometimes the excuses we make are more numerous than the real limitations. Yes: transportation is bad, food is scarce, money doesn’t stretch far enough, life is hard…but you have life, and you have to live it. Many criticize us: ‘With all the hunger in Cuba, and you all act like nothing’s wrong.’ But that’s not true. As we travel around Cuba, we’re seeing everything that’s happening, and we’re not going to hide it or pretend that everything is fine. But we’re also not going to hide the beautiful experiences we have just because some people are bothered that, even in the midst of disaster, we want to be happy here,” Brian — known to friends and followers as Nico — told OnCuba in an interview via WhatsApp.
Maps in hand and feet on the pedals, Daniela and Nico spent months preparing for an adventure that would take them to little-traveled corners of the country’s interior. She, from Cienfuegos and a doctor by training; he, from Guanabacoa, passionate about adventure. One day they decided to turn the long “lost” hours of power outages into an opportunity to discover the island they had never seen before, and where they have decided to stay while many others leave.
Meanwhile, Cubans inside and outside the country have formed a digital community around them that is about to reach 10,000 followers on Instagram, accompanying — even from a distance — a journey they too would have loved to undertake.
“My relationship with the bicycle began like that of any girl: my parents taught me to ride, and I used it to run errands, go to a friend’s house or simply pass the time. Then I met Nico, and things changed a bit. He was more involved in that world, and what was once unthinkable for me, like riding 30 km, became commonplace,” Daniela said. Originally from Rodas, in Cienfuegos, she remembers being surprised to discover that it wasn’t the first time someone had attempted such a journey; even one of her neighbors had already done it. “That inspired us and made it seem even more possible,” she said.
“Ignacio (Yeyo), a neighbor from my community, has been doing it since the 1990s, although with different reasons and a different approach. We also know of a couple from Matanzas who spent months cycling and shared some wonderful stories from their trip, from which we learned a lot. Even a friend’s aunt did it about 30 years ago. Everyone has their own reasons, but it’s always a unique experience,” Nico explained.
Initially, they planned to make the trip alone, but as they progressed along their itinerary, they met people who either joined them on the adventure or offered them shelter when they needed a place to rest and take refuge. “Our lodging consists of a tent, a mattress, and a sleeping bag. Thanks to social media, many people from almost every province have offered us their homes: a room, a terrace, a porch, or a small piece of patio. We haven’t lacked for kindness,” Daniela recalls gratefully.
On wheels
“My father gave me my first bike as an adult when I was around 24,” Nico recalls. “At that time, I had a small business about 10 km from home, so I needed to get around every day for work; public transportation wasn’t an option. When you enter this world, you start discovering parts, accessories and possibilities you didn’t even know existed. Suddenly, you find yourself immersed in a completely new universe. From that point to wanting to travel around Cuba by bicycle, the point of intersection was the power outages. The dead time at night, without internet and unable to get anything done, is time you’re never going to get back.”
One thing led to another. Before they knew it, he and Daniela had already gathered everything they needed to start the trip. All that was left was to make the decision and take the first step. “Finding the right bike for Dani was quite an ordeal, but we finally decided it was worth finding a gravel bike, like mine. This type of bike allows for wide tires, supports a lot of weight, is comfortable, aerodynamic and accepts various accessories. To complement it, we got specific bikepacking bags, which avoids carrying weight on our backs and potential health problems on long trips. But don’t let that discourage anyone: any bike will do for exploring beautiful places,” he says enthusiastically.
The conditions of many roads in Cuba are often hostile even for those traveling in more stable vehicles, such as cars and trucks. For cyclists — and even more so for those carrying backpacks and gear for long distances — the poor condition of the roads and the lack of bike lanes are felt twice as much.
“There have been stretches where we have to go very slowly because of the potholes, and sometimes a sudden pothole has forced us to check if something is broken. In fact, on our most recent trip, we had to stop everything because of a problem with my bike. The lack of bike lanes on most roads also puts cyclists’ lives at risk, not to mention the irresponsibility of many drivers. For some, we are a nuisance or simply invisible. These are risks that are always there,” Nico lamented.
Daniela agrees: “Sometimes the roads are better and sometimes worse. So far, the best, although more boring, is the thruway. On the other hand, in the westernmost part of Pinar del Río, the road is practically nonexistent: more potholes than streets. That makes our journey much more difficult, slows us down and damages our bikes more.”
Traveling by bicycle, however, has given them the freedom of movement and time they sought since conceiving the project. “In Cuba, transportation is a problem: moving even a few kilometers is expensive and difficult. Bicycles help a lot in this regard, especially in the more remote areas. We saw it a lot on our trip: old, patched-up bikes, but they do the job,” adds Daniela.
Despite the obstacles, they both feel they are living one of the greatest adventures of their lives and, moreover, building a documentary record to which they — and those inspired by the project — can return to glimpse a Cuba that doesn’t appear on city tours or conventional road trips.
From the bike: the unseen Cuba
On their journey through western Cuba — the part of the route they are currently traveling — Daniela says they have been surprised not only by the warmth with which the locals welcome them, but also by the diverse ways of life adapted to each region. “Something interesting in the Pinar del Río area is the still-active agricultural tradition: in every landscape of this province, you’ll find a farmer working the land and a pair of yoked oxen,” she remarks.
Showcasing the complex map of Cuban geography and society is also part of the project’s purpose, as is fostering environmental awareness among their social media followers. “Cuba en Bici is a way to show the country, its culture, its countryside and its nature. We also try to use it as a tool for environmental education, which is so desperately needed. We believe that even if it doesn’t solve all the problems, it always raises awareness,” says Daniela.
Nico, for his part, emphasizes that the Instagram page they created seeks to build a narrative about the real Cuba that doesn’t appear in traditional media and, therefore, seems invisible to many people. “We want to talk about how bad things are in many towns, about animal abuse — we’ve seen horrors — about the blackouts — in 15 days we only had 6 hours of electricity — about the needs of the elderly and about all the problems we see. We won’t keep quiet about anything, neither the ugly nor the beautiful,” he affirms.
For both of them, embarking on this journey involves risks, especially amidst the social problems exacerbated by the economic crisis. Cuba no longer seems as safe as it once did, but that hasn’t stopped them.
“We were warned a lot about the violence and crime these days, so we decided never, under any circumstances, to cycle at night and to be cautious when choosing where to camp,” explains Daniela, who takes the opportunity to encourage other women who dream of exploring the country on two wheels. With the proper precautions, she assures, safety is perfectly achievable. “My advice to them is to start.”
“So far, we’ve experienced both the worst and the best moments in the same town, which I prefer not to mention to avoid spoilers. There, we witnessed the worst cases of animal abuse, but we were also welcomed by some of the kindest people we’ve encountered on the road: they offered us food, lodging, a bathroom and so much more. There are people who, without even knowing you, treat you like family. That has been the most beautiful part of the trip: the selfless generosity of people we’ve just met. The connections you make last a lifetime,” Nico summarizes.
For now, they both hope their wheels and their strength will hold out for a journey that will exceed 1,000 kilometers. Along the way, the generosity of the people they’ve met has encouraged them to continue toward their next destination, despite the disappointments and the inevitable clash with a Cuba that can be as devastating as it is wonderful.
“We want to convey the truth: the hardship and the beauty, what hurts and what inspires. And we also want to show that Cuba has incredible corners that deserve to be seen and protected,” Nico affirms.
“The ‘official’ route will eventually end, but there will always be new places to discover. After cycling all over Cuba, I don’t think I’ll ever travel any other way again. As for concrete plans, when we finish, we want to edit a documentary about the trip, share a photo series, publish our travel journals and continue creating content to inspire others to get out, explore and move around. And, of course, keep cycling. Life is a journey, and if my legs and my health allow it, mine will be on a bike,” he concludes.
