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Flash shot: the Cuevita, out of place

Amidst pushcarts, makeshift stalls and the constant hustle and bustle, the Cuevita’s commerce has reappeared, relocated to other nearby streets to survive while its usual space is being renovated.

by
  • OnCuba Staff
    OnCuba Staff
October 1, 2025
in Cuba, Society
0
La Cuevita informal market in Havana

Vendors located on 13th Street, Monterrey neighborhood, San Miguel del Padrón, in Havana. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez

After the temporary closure of the famous Cuevita for repairs, many vendors have moved their business to the Monterrey neighborhood. They are now located on 13th Street, and also on 94th Street and Camino Gimnasta, in San Miguel del Padrón, in Havana. 

Despite the dispersion, activity hasn’t diminished. Each makeshift stall can represent the livelihood of a family that depends on sales to make a living. 

The morning on 13th Street in the Monterrey neighborhood wakes up to a swarm of people. 

Dozens of pushcart drivers move carts loaded with merchandise, while vendors improvise and place the most sought-after products on their shelves: razor blades, lingerie, food, electronic equipment, sneakers, pots and blenders. 

Some sell legally, paying taxes, others “struggle” informally. 

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The pushcart drivers’ work is hard and constant. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
The pushcart drivers’ work is hard and constant. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Vendors on 13th Street, the temporary location of the Cuevita merchants. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Vendors on 13th Street, the temporary location of the Cuevita merchants. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.

Buyers begin to arrive early, many even from other provinces, looking for products for both personal use and resale. 

Routine demands vigilance: there are always thieves lurking, and both buyers and sellers remain alert. 

Traffic is constant: cars, trucks and electric tricycles arrive from different parts of the city, such as El Curita Park or Virgen del Camino, navigating streets riddled with potholes and deteriorated roads, especially near the Cuevita area, where the first signs of construction work can be seen: sand, gravel and sidewalks under construction. 

People from other areas come to buy merchandise at the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
People from other areas come to buy merchandise at the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Transportation used to get to the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Transportation used to get to the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
A large hole in Calzada de Güines. In the background, the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez 
A large hole in Calzada de Güines. In the background, the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez
One of the entrance gates to the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
One of the entrance gates to the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Former entrance to the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Former entrance to the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Many people took roof tiles to place them on the new storefront: Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Many people took roof tiles to place them on the new storefront: Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Materials to repair the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Materials to repair the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Construction eqipment in front of the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Construction eqipment in front of the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Construction workers repairing the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Construction workers repairing the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Rustic stall in the Cuevita, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Rustic stall in the Cuevita, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Repairing the stalls in the Cuevita, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Repairing the stalls in the Cuevita, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Garbage dump on Camino Gimnasta Street, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Garbage dump on Camino Gimnasta Street, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.

Despite the construction and the dispersion, optimism is evident among the merchants. Many have taken tiles and stalls from their original premises, ready to set up temporary stalls and continue selling elsewhere. 

Prices aren’t as low as before, but the difference with other locations in the city allows for bargaining. 

A package of detergent can cost 150 CUP there and 200 in other municipalities; a blender costs 7,000 CUP with a gift included, while elsewhere it exceeds 10,000. The price varies depending on the product and the quantity purchased. 

Kiosk located on 94th Street, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Kiosk located on 94th Street, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Vendors on 13th Street, the temporary location of the Cuevita merchants. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Vendors on 13th Street, the temporary location of the Cuevita merchants. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
A man trying to sell brooms. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
A man trying to sell brooms. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Street vendor. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Street vendor. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Some products are cheaper than elsewhere. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Some products are cheaper than elsewhere. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.

Our photojournalist Otmaro Rodríguez visited these streets with his camera these days. The photos he took show scenes of diverse life: people displaying their products, resellers of refurbished appliances, shoppers bargaining intensely and vendors attentive to every move to preserve what little they have. 

Every element of this chaotic urban landscape is a sign of resilience and adaptation, a reflection of how the Cuevita, even temporarily closed, continues to be a vital commercial space for many families. 

A man moves products on a wheelbarrow, 13th Street, Monterrey neighborhood, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
A man moves products on a wheelbarrow, 13th Street, Monterrey neighborhood, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
People on 13th Street, Monterrey neighborhood, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
People on 13th Street, Monterrey neighborhood, San Miguel del Padrón. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.
Eyeglasses vendor in the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez. 
Eyeglasses vendor in the Cuevita. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.

Despite the noise and apparent disorder, the economic heart of these streets continues to beat. 

The Cuevita has moved, transformed, but it hasn’t disappeared as rumored. 

In that persistent tide, daily life continues to weave itself. It’s there where informality coexists with the need to survive and where the family economy finds refuge, among pallets, makeshift shelves and the hope that sales will soon return to their original home in better conditions. 

  • OnCuba Staff
    OnCuba Staff
Tags: featuredInformal market in Cubamarkets in Cuba
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