Visiting Pinar del Río

Pinar del Río is a kind city, as are its people. Even amidst the vicissitudes and darkness of the crisis, of all problems that torpedo its daily life, like that of all of Cuba, the provincial capital welcomes those who choose to visit it with warmth and serenity.

It is not one of the most cosmopolitan cities on the island, nor one of the most hectic and bustling. It has its own tempo, its own atmosphere and, although its streets and main sites can be crowded at times, its pace — like its cleanliness and hospitality — is far from the frantic and extroverted atmosphere of other Cuban cities like Havana and Santiago.

Independencia Park, in Pinar del Río. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.

Pinar del Río, the capital city of the Cuban province of the same name. Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez.

Pinar del Río doesn’t have the history of other Cuban towns, although that doesn’t make it any less so. It wasn’t among the first townships on the island and although its origins date back to the colonial period, for a long time it remained a small town with little urban development. It wasn’t until 1867 that it received the title of city by Royal Order, a date that the people of Pinar del Río celebrate as its anniversary.

From then on, its development became dynamic. After the end of the Ten Years’ War in 1878, Pinar del Río became a province and the young city became its capital. With this status, in the following decades it would continue to grow in population and buildings, receive the railroad and electric light, and consolidate its prominence in a region famous for its tobacco production.

In the 20th century, the city continued to grow. More dwellings and public buildings, businesses and schools were built; streets were paved and a sewage system project was implemented. Over the years, new neighborhoods and communities emerged and Pinar del Río also became a municipality. Thus, it entered the new millennium with a well-defined identity and culture, beyond any stereotype.

Today, Pinar del Río is once again suffering the impact of a crisis, with shortages and long blackouts, construction debts and other difficulties. At the same time, it remains a welcoming city, with landmarks like Independencia Park, the Guasch Palace and Martí Street, and with noble and affable people like those our correspondent Otmaro Rodríguez encountered a few days ago on a visit.