The world of cocktails is no longer alien to women. That they are occupying spaces in bars and in the bartending union in Latin America is not so recent. In the universe of spirits, veteran Lorena Vásquez, a Nicaraguan with a degree in Pharmaceutical Chemistry, has been working as a master blender for the Zacapa rum brand for more than 35 years.
Initiatives such as the Learning for Life program, from the multinational Diageo Bar Academy, sponsored by the UN Global Compact, aim to “bring low-income young people closer to the world of professional cocktails” with an inclusive approach, according to UN Women. Paola Andrea Ganán, a beneficiary of the program in 2023, planned to be the first indigenous barlady of her country, Colombia.
In Cuba, in the most iconic state and private tourist establishments, it is common to see them with their cocktail shakers, composing presentations and gracefully serving the drinks they prepare. In the hotel and tourism sector, Cuban women represent almost 43% of the economically active population, according to ONEI.
Behind the bar of the famous El patio lobby bar, at the Habana Libre Hotel, Ana Carla is preparing and serving cocktails from 8 in the morning until midnight. The Havana native left her medical career in 2017 to dedicate herself to cocktails, a profession in which, despite her young age, she is already known by her name. “If I had another chance, I would choose to be a barlady again,” she says, as if to leave no doubt.
Last March she took the title of Lady Drink 2024 to Cuba, awarded by the cocktail event of the same name held in Bibione, Venice, Italy.
Aroma di Donna, her signature cocktail, a daring combination of spirits with mandarin liqueur, conquered the jury’s palates.
In the universe of the cantina, Ana Carla finds purpose and, above all, a creative way to express herself.
How did you start in the world of cocktails?
About to finish the first year of medical school, I decided to leave it and enroll in the Comodoro Formatur School. I applied and the only position available was Gastronomic Services, which included specialties such as the cantina, service techniques, wine, and cooking, among others, and it gives you a general overview of the job so that you can later specialize. I took the exams, passed and that’s how I started in the world of gastronomy, in 2017.
My first internships were in the Habana Libre. When I had the opportunity to be behind the bar for the first time I realized that that was what I liked, but at that time I was still trying out different tourism services.
After that, I went through several sectors in the same hotel. When I was a clerk in the lobby I was offered the opportunity to work at the bar again. And there I have been since then, as a barlady, doing what I like most.
Why did you choose cocktails? What made you fall in love with this job?
I’m fascinated by what a woman imposes behind a bar. The cantina allows me to imagine mixtures and try them; it is a special experience. What I love about cocktails is that: creating.
Is there a tradition of women bartenders in Cuba?
Unlike other countries, in Cuba, barladies have earned well-deserved recognition because we have known how to occupy a place traditionally reserved for men. In our country, at least, we are recognized.
We have spectacular barladies. But this year we Cubans have particularly stood out. For the first time, two women won international cocktail events. Kenia Borges, from Meliá Internacional de Varadero Hotel, won first prize in the first International Women’s Cocktail Competition held in Athens, Greece, and I won the 2024 Lady Drink International Cocktail Championship.
It has been revolutionary because we both won prizes in these tournaments, where we were able to highlight the capacity of Cuban barladies.
What challenges do you perceive in your profession?
The cantina changes daily, it is very dynamic. The first challenge we have is to arrive every day and satisfy the demands of our clients because we are where we are because of them. In addition, you have to be aware of and updated on the latest developments in the world of cocktails to offer a differentiated service.
What do you enjoy most?
Arriving at the Habana Libre lobby bar and realizing that I’m the soul of the bar. Preparing my work table, doing my mise en place, thinking about what I’m going to do that day. When I manage to make the cocktail I imagined, I’m satisfied.
What does your daily work routine consist of?
The work dynamic depends on the flow of clients I have during the day, but I feel like I’m at home, because I do what I like.
My job is to understand customers’ requests and translate that by preparing a drink that lives up to their order. If the client drinks the first drink and is surprised by the result, that is my reward.
In March you were the winner of the Lady Drink 2024 for Aroma di Donna, your signature cocktail. What/who were you inspired to create it?
When I attended the event I went with the expectation of winning because that is what one always wants, but when they gave me the prize I was surprised. I made an effort and the result was a consequence of that. Many people supported me during the process and I’m very grateful.
To make the cocktail I was inspired by Cuban women, strong and enterprising, and to represent those characteristics I used Habana Club Selección de Maestros Rum as a synergy, mixed with the subtle bitter notes of Campari and the warmth and sweetness of White Vermouth. A perfect combination. When drunk, the mandarin liqueur, which is also included, gives it an extra touch of exquisiteness, as well as texture.
How is Aroma di Donna prepared?
Pour all the ingredients into the shaker. Strain for 20 seconds, and served in a previously chilled Martini glass. To present it I like to decorate it with cuts of citrus peel placed on the edge of the glass.
How do you create the drinks? Are there spirits, liqueurs and syrups that should never be mixed?
Some drinks should not be mixed due to unwanted health effects, such as vodkas, gins, and light rums with dark drinks such as whiskey, brandy, etc. But that is something very personal and even has to do with luck.
There are famous drinks considered cocktail classics that mix all of this, which is why there is no very defined rule regarding the distillation synergies. I create according to inspiration and I take risks.
In addition to the mix, a cocktail stands out for its presentation. What elements do you use to create yours?
Good mix, texture and aroma are important to the success of a cocktail, but the presentation is essential. Lately, dehydrated ones have become popular.
I really like working with natural decorations. I always try to top my cocktails with edible elements, because I feel that they transport customers to the idea and the very story of the origin of the cocktail. It takes them into a universe that was born from my imagination.
That the decoration is safe is essential. The aesthetics of the presentation cannot compromise the customer experience. The drink cannot be spilled because the glass in which it is served is too full, for example.
What drinks do your customers order the most?
My bar is visited by clients from many parts of the world. People want to come to Cuba and have a good mojito and a daiquiri. Those are the cocktails I sell the most. In addition to the piña colada, which has become popular; a drink to refresh yourself. The flavor of pineapple and coconut fascinates them.
They ask for the Cuba Libre, but mainly because of the name; they think it is something very different and in most cases, when they try it, they realize that they have already drunk it in their own countries because of the simple mixture and the availability of the drinks it contains.
Which one do you like to prepare the most?
I don’t have a favorite. I like the cantina and that’s it. Sometimes they even ask me for cocktails that I have never heard of and what I do is ask the customer what is in the drink, what is its flavor; I ask them to guide me to try to reproduce what they expect.
What does a drink have to have to be considered a good cocktail?
Love. It is an essential ingredient to prepare any drink, even one that you are going to drink alone at home. In my case, Cubanness is also part of my identity as a barlady. The two times I have participated in international events I have always carried my flag; it’s my amulet. I put that in my drinks too.
Besides the daiquiri, the mojito and the Cuba Libre, are there any Cuban cocktails that you consider notable for their flavor?
The canchánchara, because it is as simple as it is tasty. You feel exactly everything it carries. Cane liquor, honey, lemon. And it’s not prepared in many places in Cuba, which is why I think it needs to be given more visibility in Cuban cantinas.
It is a drink with history because it was created in the scrubland. The Mambí rebel forces took it to warm themselves on cold nights. It is very Cuban. It was drunk hot, now we drink it cold because we are a hot country and we had to find a way to market it more. That is why ice is added to its current version, although it is made as it was conceived by the Mambí independence forces.
What “tools” and accessories are not missing in a barlady’s kit?
Until a few days ago I didn’t have my own kit. I went to Lady Drink with work materials that Sergio Serrano lent me, the only world cocktail champion that Cuba has ever had (Seville, 2003).
There are tools that a barlady should not be missing: a strainer, a teaspoon, a preparation glass or shaker, a knife for cutting decorations and a jigger. Sometimes a jigger, a teaspoon, and a glass are enough to create a cocktail.
Do you have any projects in mind?
For the time being, I will finish my degree in Tourism in September of this year. For me it has been a great challenge to work and study at the same time, that is why my goal is to complete my studies and then continue to improve myself professionally in the world of cocktails.
I want my creations to be known around the world. Make my clients smile when they taste my drinks. That’s what I want.
Author
Deborah Rodriguez Santos
